Fabric is a big part of how Yoruba people dress for celebrations, and three names come up again and again: aso oke, adire and ankara. They are very different cloths. This guide explains each in simple terms. Details are general, and styles and production methods vary.
The three fabrics at a glance
| Fabric | What it is | Often worn for |
|---|---|---|
| Aso oke | Hand-woven cloth made in narrow strips that are sewn together; the name means ‘top cloth’ | Weddings, naming ceremonies, festivals and other special occasions |
| Adire | Cloth patterned by resist-dyeing, traditionally in indigo blue, with designs made by tying, stitching or painting before dyeing | Everyday and festive wear, headties and wrappers |
| Ankara | Colourful wax-print cotton, bright and patterned, widely worn across West Africa | Casual and party wear |
Aso oke
Aso oke is woven on narrow looms and is valued for its weight, texture and richness. It is used to make outfits, headties and caps. See how it fits into dress in our guides to women’s attire and men’s attire.
Adire
Adire is associated with several Yoruba towns, including Abeokuta and Ibadan. Each pattern is made by blocking some areas from the dye, so every piece looks a little different. Visit the home of Egba adire in our guide to Abeokuta.
Ankara
Ankara prints are widely sold in Nigerian markets and tailored into modern designs. The wax-print technique is not originally Yoruba, but ankara has become a major part of Nigerian fashion and is worn at many parties; see our owambe guide.
Complete the look
- Learn how to tie a gele.
- Pair hair with dress; see traditional hairstyles.
- Shop in Yoruba with market phrases.
Frequently asked questions
What does aso oke mean? ‘Top cloth’, a hand-woven fabric for special occasions.
Is ankara a Yoruba fabric? It is widely worn by Yoruba people, but wax prints did not originate in Yorubaland.
Photo: Unsplash contributor, a Nigerian man and woman in traditional attire, illustrative; the fabrics worn are not identified. Descriptions are general.
